Stairs from Avak Inc.

The first thing to do is to measure the height where your stairs will go. This is your most important measurement. It is called the total rise. Every other measurement depends on it. The total rise is the vertical distance between the surface of the higher floor and the surface of the ground, sidewalk or the lower floor that the last step will be on (see Figure 2)

The total run is the horizontal distance between the edge of the upper floor and the end of the bottom step.

Each step has two basic measurements. The horizontal or flat part of the step is called the run. The vertical height difference between two steps is called the rise. The riser is the vertical part of the step between a tread and the underside of the tread above it. The part of the step that sticks out past the riser is called the nosing. The dimension of each step depends on a number of factors. Your stairs can be steep or gradual. The rise of each step can vary as well as its run. (see Figure 3)

To prevent the steps from being too steep or too gradual (see Figure 4), there is a relationship or proportion between the rise and the run. The Building Code says that the rise must have a maximum of 200 mm (7 7/8") and a minimum of 125 mm (5"); the run has a maximum of 355 mm (14") and minimum of 210 mm (8 5/16"); the tread depth has a maximum of 355 mm (14") and minimum of 235 mm (9 1/4"). The tread depth is the run including the nosing. The nosing cannot be more than 25 mm (1"). You should check the building code of your own region before building or renovating anything structural for your home.

An old adage says that for older people the ideal rise is 6" with a run of 12". An intermediate rise is 7" and the run is 11". The steepest should be no more than a rise of 7 7/8" and a run of 10" . Notice that, in each case, the run plus the rise equals 18". This is the simplest way of determining rise and run but the size of each step is totally up to you as long as they are within Building Code ranges. The ideal run and rise for a dwelling based on a 92 1/4" stud, 3-1 1/2" plates, 2x10 floor joists and 5/8" subfloor is 14 rises of 7 5/8" and 13 runs of 10 1/2" with a 1" nosing.

The preferred angle of stairs is around 30 – 35 degrees. There are three generally accepted rules for calculating the ideal rise to run ratio:

1. The sum of two risers and one tread is 24" to 25"
2. The sum of one riser and one tread should be 17" to 18"
3. The rise times the run should be between 70" and 80".

An important thing to remember when building stairs is that there is one less tread than there are rises.

To keep each rise the same size, you'll need to make some calculations. Follow these steps:

1. Measure the total rise (distance from the surface of the upper floor to the surface of the lower floor). If your measurement is in feet and inches then convert it into inches only. Example: 8'-10 3/4" is 8 x 12 + 10 3/4 = 106 3/4 or 106.75
2. Decide on the size of the riser you want for your stairs, say 7 1/2 inches.
3. Divide the total rise (measurement from 1 above) by the size of the riser you decided on: 106.75 / 7.5 = 14.23.
4. The result of the calculation will probably not be a whole number (one without a fraction). There will most likely be a remainder or fraction. Choose the nearest whole number to the answer of your calculation, i.e. 14. This is the number of rises in your set of stairs. To calculate the exact rise, divide your total rise by the number of risers, i.e. 106.75 / 14 = 7.625 or 7 5/8".
5. As we previously mentioned, there is one less tread than riser, so in our example of 14 rises there would be 13 treads.

Nail the stringers in place, securely to the top floor trim joist and to the bottom floor, or to the side walls. Next is installing the steps or treads. In our example we chose 1" plywood for the treads. Since our stairs are inside a house and will be carpeted, we will choose a nosing of 1" giving us a tread width of 11 1/2". Rip the 1" plywood 11 1/2" wide and the length to match the width between the walls less 3/4" on each side for the drywall to slip down. The width of the stair case is important as well. The minimum width is 860 mm.(33 7/8"). I prefer a width of 36" if appliances or furniture have to be moved up or down them. If your stairway is wider than 36" put in extra stringers to support the longer treads.

Drywall installation by Avak Inc.

Step 1: Before You Begin

Remove molding, baseboards, batten strips, outlet covers and wall switches.

Step 2: Measure & Cut

With a chalk line or straightedge, mark cut line. Score deeply with a utility knife. Stand the sheet on edge and snap the cut segment back. Slice the backing with knife.

Step 3: Hang Panel

Start at the corner. Place first wall panel tightly against ceiling. If panel edge doesn't center on wall stud, trim it back until it does.

Step 4: Fasten Panel

Use 1-5/8 inch screws to secure to stud. Drive screws 3/8 inch minimum from edge of panel. Place screws minimum of 12 inches apart along the stud. Set screws just below the surface of the drywall, but don't break the paper facing.

Step 5: Fit Upper Panels

Keep joints snug. Avoid making joints at doors and windows. Place a sheet across opening and cut out with a saw.

Step 6: Cut Around Outlets

Measure from edge of box to edge of last panel. Measure from the floor to the top and bottom of the box. Cut out with saw.

Step 7: Fit Lower Panels

Place panel in position. For a tight fit, use wooden wedge to lift lower panel firmly against upper. Screw to wall studs.

Finishing the Drywall

To smooth the surface for painting or wallpapering, the joints and fasteners need to be hidden.

There are three types of joints: tapered (factory-indented), non-tapered (edges you cut yourself) and inside corners. The first coat is applied differently for each joint, as well as for covering drywall screw indentations.

First Coat of Joint Compound

Non-tapered Joint

Apply thin bed (1/16 inch) of compound (mud). Press tape into mud and cover with another thick layer of compound.

Tapered Joint

Step A:

With 6-inch taping knife held at a 45 degree angle, fill tapered joint with compound.

Step B:

Center tape over joint. Press into mud coat. Cover with smooth, thin layer of mud. Allow to dry.

Inside Corner

Apply compound. Fold tape down the center and press into corner. Cover each side with thin layer of mud.

Screw Indentations

Cover screw heads with compound, passing over indentations several times to fill depressions. Scrape away any excess.

Fix-It-Tips!

A quick wipe with a damp sponge will smooth out any knife marks after joint compound has begun to set up.

Finishing Steps

Step 1: Second Coat

Be sure the first coat is dry. Apply compound with a 12-inch taping knife. Feather the edges. On non-tapered joints, spread feathering out 10 to 12 inches to minimize the seam.

On inside corners, do one side, let compound dry, then do second side, or use a corner knife.

Cover screw heads with second coat. Feather the edges.

Step 2: Third Coat

Thin compound with water. Apply a light coating over all mudded areas. Let dry.

Step 3: Sand

Put a dust mask over your nose and mouth. Sand lightly to smooth mudded surface.